| Wanda Rutkiewicz——旺达·卢切薇兹
出乎意料地,她成为第一个登上珠峰(1978)的波兰人,由此她在登山界赢得了名声并在祖国家喻户晓。 Wanda命中注定要成为14座8000米高峰的猎取者,不论那会带给人什么样的伤害。 1981年她不顾伤腿,拄着拐杖奔向K2。直到她在布洛阿特的大本营,作为Jezry Kukuczka和Voytek Kurtykad的后备,她发现自己走得太远了,以至于之后一年她都无法登山。 1992年她前往干城章嘉,虽然医生警告她,肺和肾脏严重变形。她最后被看到是在干城章嘉8200米处,她当时正在露宿,为单人冲顶做准备。
登山经历: 1975~加舒尔布鲁木2GasherbrumII、加舒尔布鲁木3GasherbrumIII(首登) 1978~珠峰Mount Everest 1985~南迦帕尔巴特Nanga Parbat 1986~乔戈里K2 1987~希夏邦马Shesha Pangma 1989~加舒尔布鲁木Gasherbrum 1990~加舒尔布鲁木1GasherbrumI 1991~卓奥友Cho Oyu(单人)、安那普尔纳Annapurna(单人) 1992~干城章嘉(8200米失踪)
With her unexpected first Polish ascent of Mount Everest she become a name in alpine climbing and a heroine for the Polish people. Wanda was determinate to bag all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres - no matter what, this however led to considerable personal damage. In 1981, despite a broken leg, she set out for K2 on crutches. Only when she reached the Broad Peak base camp on the backs of Jezry Kukuczka and Voytek Kurtyka did she realise she had come too far. That costed a whole year of no climbing. In 1992 she left to climb Kangchenjunga, though the doctors had warned her, both her liver and kidneys were in very bad shape. She was last seen on Kanchenjunga at an altitude of 8,200 metres, bivouacking in preparation for a solo summit bid the following day. |