| Hermann Buhl——赫尔曼·布尔
他是一个传奇的人,因为他总会在别人失败的山峰成功。 1953年,他沿着南迦帕尔巴特Rakhiot路线首登时,他先在8000米以上的小平台上过了一夜,后来花了41个小时在幻觉中登顶,连滚带爬下山。看上去老了10岁。这次攀登被认为是登山史上的伟大的壮举。 4年以后,在布洛阿特,他和伙伴给人们展示了登8000米高山,其实不用大队伍和高山向导。Buhl因为在南迦帕尔巴特受了伤,走得缓慢,于是他让结组的Kurt Diemberger去和Wintersteller and Schmuck结组,三人都登了顶。当Dimberger登顶下撤时,惊奇地发现Buhl还在攀登,他回忆道:“Hermann 一步一步,慢慢的向上,时间已经6:30了,这个时间去登顶,肯定是疯了”Diemberger被感动了,陪着Buhl又去登顶“在那里我体会了真正的生活意义”。 几天以后,他们又去试登,在Chogolisa顶峰附近,他掉下一个雪檐,遇难了。直到今天Kurt Diemberger还是觉得非常的遗憾:“太让人难受了,我的朋友瞬间就消失了,真不能相信象他这样个人登过南迦帕尔巴特的人会在这里遇难,我下山时太难受了”。
登山经历: Badile North East Wall(单人) Watzmann East Wall(单人,冬季) Eiger North Face Nanga Parbat(首登,从C5单人41小时登顶下山) Broad Peak (首登) Chogolisa(遇难)
A legend among many climbers, by taking enormous risks Hermann Buhl succeeded where others failed. Soloed the final stage on Nanga Parbats Rakhiot Route during the first ascent in 1953, spent the night above 8,000 metres on a tiny ledge, finally returning to the camp after 41 hours he was hallucinating and crawling downwards, looking 10 years older. This climb is now regarded as one of the greatest mountaineering feats of all time. Four years later, on Broad Peak, he and his partners showed that a 8,000 metre mountain could be climbed without a large team and porters. Buhl was suffering badly from the injuries he got on Nanga Partbat and was ascending extremely slowly during the last section, he sent his rope-companion, Kurt Diemberger ahead to catch up with the other rope-team, Wintersteller and Schmuck, they reached the summit together. |