| 钩环 Oval-shape carabiners are the best choice for aid climbing, since the symmetrical shape holds loads at center of curve; runners wont's shift under load as they would in Ds. They're best for carabiner-brake rappels. O型钩环是人工攀登的最佳选择,因为受力后绳环不会任意移动(在D型钩环下较易发生),在做钩环下降时最好选择这一型。 D-shape carabiners are stronger and lighter than ovals, given the same materials. The asymmetrical design ensures that loads are held off-center, toward the stronger, non-gated side. D型钩环的强度最强且比同材料的O形钩环轻,不对称的设计使负载物不会在中央,而移到开口的另一侧强度最强的地方。
Bent-gate carabiners are designed for fast, easy clip-ins. They're used on the rope end of quick draws. 弯口钩环能够很快速又容易的把绳子扣入,常用在快扣的挂绳端。
保险钩环(Locking-type): Locking carabiners come in screw-type and auto-lock models. Use them with belay/rappel devices, at belay anchors, on the first bolt of a pitch, and at all other critical applications.
保险钩环:有旋转型及自动确保型,用在确保或垂降,每个pitch的第一个bolt,及重要的地方。
使用钩环注意事项:
钩环之纵向与横向所能承受的力量不同,一般横向受力小,应避免使用横向来承受力量;另外,具有UIAA记号者,安全值得信赖.
Check your carabiners regularly for stress corrosion cracks around the gate ends. These hairline cracks sometimes develop over time in high-strength aluminum alloy and may reduce carabiner strength by more than 50%. Retire any carabiner with cracks or signs of damage.
使用时检查钩环的开口附近是否有损坏,这些小破损有时候会出现在高强度的铝合金上,可能使钩环的强度降低50%,有裂缝或明显损坏的钩环应该丢弃。
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