| 如何选择岩鞋: Reference1---Youllwantasnugbutnotpainfulfit.Goabitlesssnugforall-day-longroutes;quiteabittighterforthoseshortoverhangingtest-pieces.Keepinmindthatmostshoeswillstretchaquartermostlyinwidth,notmuchinlength.Correctfitthroughthetoe-boxareaiscrucial---ifthereareanypainfulpressurespotshere,tryadifferentmodel.Besuretoloosenthelacescompletelytotheendofthetoeboxbeforeputtingontheshoe.Weartheshoesaroundthehouseabittocheckthefitbeforeyougoclimbing. 参考一:穿起来舒适且不痛,但略小一点,穿久了会不舒服。大部份的鞋子两侧比较紧,前后比较不会。指尖部份要合脚最重要,如果爬起来会痛就换另一种型的。穿鞋时记得把鞋带全部松开,上场之前先穿著走看看是否合脚。 Reference2---Ilanasguidetoclimbingshoesforeverybody 参考二:如下表,愈厉害的人穿得愈紧。 Level 程度 Beginner 入门 Novice 初学 Competent 老手 Expert 专家 Who Yoursoulwhothinksyourecrazy,butiswillingtotryit Hasactuallyclimbedonrock,andknowswhat‘friendsare KnowswhoDerekHerseyChristianandGriffithChristianare Friends*are*DerekHerseyChristianandChristianGriffith Does Climbs5.4,eyesclosed,screaming Climbs5.9,stillscreamssometimes Climbs5.11,nomorescreams Solos5.11 ShoeFit Comfortable Snug Tight Cutsoffcirculation Size Sameassneakers Asizesmaller WouldfitCinderella Wouldfitafour-year-old How Armsgiveoutlongbeforefeethurt Feelsgoodtotakethemoffatendofday Loosensshoesateachbelaystance Mustsoakfeetinhottubatendof1pitch Quote “Areyou*sure*Imnotgoingtokillmyself?” “IbetIdclimb5.10ifmyshoesweretighter.” “IbetIdclimb5.12ifmyshoesweretighter.” “Couldyoulookandtellmeifmyfeetarestillthere?” 如何保持岩鞋的干净:Usesoap,water,andabrushofsomekindtowashyourshoes.Donotuseanypetroleumproducts,alcohol,orsolvents.Donotexposeyourshoestohightemperaturesoranopenflameinanefforttospeedupthedryingprocess.Youmaywanttochecktheinstructionsthatcomewithyourshoes.Thedishwasherisrightout,asistheblowdrier.Tostopandpreventyourclimbingshoesfromsmellingitisnecessarytokillthegerms(bacteriagrossus)livinginside.ThebestwaytodothisistospraytheLysol(来舒)intheshoeswithoutgettinganyontheoutside.Lettheshoedryandsprinklesomepowderin. 如何保持岩鞋的干净:用洗洁剂刷洗,但不要用石油或去渍油等溶剂。不要将鞋放在高温处或高温烘干,看看鞋子的说明书,烘碗机和吹风机都不行。为了去除岩鞋味道,必须将霉菌消灭,最好的方法是喷一些来舒在鞋子里面,并保持干燥。 如何保持岩鞋的摩擦力:Rock-shoerubberoxidesandhardensovertime,andcangiveyouthatskiddingfeeling onclimbing.Takeastiffwirebrushtoyourshoeeverysooften.Abriskscrubbing willremovethathardouterlayerandgiveyouanew,stickiersurface. 如何保持岩鞋的摩擦力:岩鞋的橡胶会慢慢的氧化变平,攀岩时会变滑,用硬的铁刷把外面刮去,就会有新的表面。 |